Antigua Trip Report 2001
This is a trip report for a vacation my wife and I took to Hawksbill resort in Antigua, September 1st - September 8th of 2001. I've split the report into two sections. The first is a high level, "bullet-point" type review. The second is quite long and goes into more detail about the trip.
Note, all prices are in $US unless otherwise noted.
- Transportation: United Air from Cleveland (CLE) to Washington Dulles (IAD). BWIA (British West Indies Air) from IAD to Antigua (ANU). Cost, $602/pp. We were extremely pleased with BWIA (or BWEE, pronounced BeeWee, as everyone calls them). Our other options were American and Air Canada (we live close to Toronto). BWIA had the best flight times and a direct flight out of IAD so, even though they were about $100/pp more than American, we had heard such horror stories about AA that we chose BWIA. With the exception of the food, which I think even rats wouldn't have touched, everything was perfect and the people were very friendly. We would definitely fly BWIA again.
- Accommodations: Hawksbill Resort. $344 (including tax) for 7 nights. Beachfront cottage (not deluxe), garden view.
- Inter-island transportation: Rented a car for the week. Toyota Tercel, automatic w/air. $216 (including tax) + $20 for temporary license. Be careful because you cannot charge the $20 and must pay cash for it when you get the car.
- Activities: Wadadli Cats Circumnavigation Tour ($75/pp *** These guys are incredible...more on them below), Sunday at Shirley Heights ($20/pp taxi fare) and our own driving around the island ($50 EC - approx. $18.50US in gas).
- Likes: The raw beauty of the island, the people.
- Dislikes: The enormous spiders, numerous flies.
- Other things to know:
- ATMs are widely available and there are two at the airport.
- One type of enormous spider mentioned above is a Tarantula. The other is a Horse Spider.
- National Currency is EC's, about 2.7 to the $US. Be careful charging things, though, because often the amount will be converted by the merchant (instead of your bank) at a much lower rate (2.5 for instance).
- People drive on the left and steering wheels are on the right of the car.
- Immigration takes a while to get though, and there is a lot to fill out.
- Worth a return trip? No, but a qualified no. Read below for why I say this. I am definitely glad I went to Antigua and enjoyed myself very much. I would highly recommend this island to others.
I was excited about taking my wife to Antigua because she has never been to the Caribbean before (not counting the Bahamas). In December we are going to Jamaica, and while it is a lovely country, I wanted her to experience a more "pure" Caribbean. A Caribbean without high-rise hotels, without loads of tourists, and without cell- phones. Antigua was definitely it.
As many have said before me, Antigua is not an island known for its nightlife. It is, however, an island known for its lush flora, numerous beaches, and friendly people.
Wadadli, the original name for Antigua, can be found everywhere on the island. From the names of tour companies to the local beer, it's the one new word you'll definitely learn to pronounce here. And hopefully you'll learn how to pronounce Antigua too :) (it's An-tee-gah, not An-tee-gwa).
We had done a lot of research in preparing for this trip, mostly relying on the Antigua-Barbuda newsgroup and emailing recent visitors. It was interesting because we noticed a lot of conflicting stories about the island. One person would say the Antiguans were unfriendly and rude, another would say the opposite. One person would say don't rent a car, another would say it was the only way to see the island. And then there were the fights about where to stay and, more vehemently where not to stay.
After spending a week in Antigua I understand all of these comments. And your view on Antigua really depends on what you are looking for in an island. It's not fair to simply warn someone that there is no nightlife here or that if they are looking for peace and quiet then this is the right island for them. It's really more than that.
For instance, I found the people to be some of the nicest I've met anywhere (except for St. Lucia). But I can see how people would think they were rude. Why? Two reasons mainly. First, the entire island is on "Caribbean time". This means be prepared to wait for service. This bothers a lot of people, especially Americans, but especially the British. However, if you understand this going in, and expect it, then there are no problems.
Second, the people don't walk around with grins on their faces. To be honest, I'm not sure why people would expect them (or any other nation of people) to do so, but somehow it's expected and tourists are upset when it's not there. However, strike up a conversation with a local, or watch them interact with each other and you'll see a collection of the most beautiful smiles anywhere.
Antiguans are extremely friendly. They will go out of their way to help you, and in general have a very good sense of humor.
The roads were another source of confusion for us. Having been to St. Lucia (although I didn't drive there), I really couldn't see how they could be that bad. In fact, the reverse is true. The conditions of most of the roads, especially the ones leading to the major sights and hotels, are in great condition. In fact, I have to weave around more potholes on my daily commute to work than I had to in Antigua (the one exception is Fig Tree drive...see below).
What is difficult about the roads is that you drive on the "wrong" side of the road (for Americans) and the roads are all single lane in each direction and often quite narrow. Street signs are non-existent and determining who has the right of way at intersections is tricky at best. Luckily the Antiguans seem to know this and are quick to offer directions and happy to let people pass or cut in front of them. Still, driving in Antigua is a little stressful.
When driving you also need to watch out for the animals. There are a lot of them (and I mean a lot of them), mostly goats and sheep, but a lot of cows and donkeys too, all running free. In the cities there are lots of dogs.
Antigua is a country that will give you a good slice of the Caribbean. It is a good place to visit, and it is a place where you will see some of the most beautiful sunsets around. It is a safe country - there is very little crime here. And yes, Antigua does have a lot of beaches. You can get great food here, a good tan, and a stress- free vacation.
Antigua is not a country to stay in for 2 weeks (as many Europeans do). There simply isn't enough to do. It is not a country to honeymoon or be married in. It isn't romantic enough for that. It is not a rich country. Poverty, like in much of the Caribbean, is rampant here. It is not a country to go to if you want to be waited on and treated like a prince(ss).
We decided to vacation in Antigua because we won a bid there on SkyAuction - I can't say enough good things about this site) to stay at Hawksbill resort. Our total cost for the week, including taxes, was $344.
Hawksbill (named because of the Hawksbill-like rock formation just off its beaches) is on the island's west coast and boasts four beaches in a tropical jungle-like setting. It has several categories of rooms:
- A great house which has several bedrooms and is on a hill overlooking the ocean.
- Deluxe beachfront cottages (I didn't see the inside of these but they looked new from the outside).
- "Normal" 2-storied hotel rooms. These had 2 double beds and were quite large.
- "Normal" beachfront cottages. This is where we stayed. Some faced the ocean and others (like ours) faced the "garden". These rooms have a singe king-sized bed.
- "Other" beachfront cottages. These were like the "normal" ones, but on a hill with balconies that had amazing ocean views.
Also, none of the rooms have TV, although I think that a few have phones.
You can rent a safe for $15/week.
The landscaping at Hawksbill was incredible. You are surrounded by plants and trees of all types and colors. There is an extreme tropical feel to the place. There are four beaches (the last, and best, one is clothing optional...more on this below), two bars/restaurants, a (small) fresh-water pool, and a nick-knack store.
Hawksbill also has kayaks, paddle boats, and snorkeling gear for free. There is also water skiing, but I am unsure if this is free or has a cost (I know they give free lessons on some days).
The pool that is there is quite small and very deep. It's 5' on the sides and 5'6" in the middle. It's maybe a 25'x25' square.
On our drives around the island, and on our circumnavigation tour (when picking up other guests) we saw some of the other hotels. Hawksbill seemed by far to be the best looking and, from talking to others, the most reasonably priced (for room at least).
Hawksbill has dramatic sunsets. On good days you can see Montserrat, Rodonda, Nevis, and St. Kitts.
That being said, Hawksbill could be so much more. On a scale of 1 - 10, I would only give it a 6-7 overall. Why? It is a hotel of contradictions:
- The rooms, as mentioned above, were varied and nice. However they were also run down. Not dirty and not ugly, just old. Maid service was pretty spotty too. Our sheets were not changed for our entire trip and we didn't get new towels until we directly asked the maid for them. Yes, we tried leaving the towels on the floor...they just disappeared and were not replaced!
- Food there was excellent. Breakfast is a buffet of sausage, bacon, pancakes, omelets, baked beans and cheese (for the British), rolls/muffins, etc. Lunch was standard fare (hamburgers, chicken, etc.) with a daily special (e.g., curried chicken with rice). There was an afternoon tea with sandwiches, followed by dinner at 7:30. However, the cost of food was prohibitive ($38/pp for dinner, $12/pp for breakfast, and lunch varied but averaged $15-$20/pp). This means you can spend $65-$70/pp per day on food. And that doesn't include drinks at $3.50 for a non-alcoholic and $4.50 for an alcoholic one. Luckily there is a meal plan, but that is expensive too and there is a modest ($2) surcharge for lunch.
- The bars are located in pretty settings, but one closes at 6pm and the other at 11pm. Basically, once 11pm hits, the resort shuts down.
- Lastly, Hawksbill is very beautiful, but very remote. You must have a car here or be prepared to spend a lot on taxi fares.
To reach the beach you follow a path along a hill from the third beach and go through a gate. It's quite a walk from the "main" part of the hotel, easily 5-10min. Make sure you bring shoes as the grass by the beach is overrun by goats and you see the "evidence" of them everywhere you step.
The CO beach also has the best view of the hawksbill "rock" and excellent seashells. In fact, you can spend your entire time here just walking the beach looking for them (it probably takes a good 15-20min to stroll the length of the beach).
The water here, like everywhere else on the island, is crystal clear and warm. Be careful, though, because jellyfish are often in the water. This was my wife's first time at a CO beach and she loved it. Of course, like I said, it was pretty empty. We never saw more than 2 other couples on the beach.
Even though the hotel "closes" down at 11pm you can still make your own fun. In fact, one night we, along with a British couple we met there, hosted our own private party. The hotel let us set up in the beach bar and even gave us ice and some mixers for free. As the party started to die down, the stragglers all went skinny-dipping. First in the pool and then in the ocean. I don't know what time I went to bed that night, but I do know it was daylight.
Because of the expense of eating in the hotel, we sampled a lot of the local cuisine. Our first night there we had some barbecue on the side of the road. It was so good that we had it our last night too. Just drive around the island and you'll see locals grilling everything from chicken to porkchops to liver to ribs to pig tails. Cost varies, but expect to pay between $5 and $10EC ($2 - $3.50US) depending on the piece you get and where you get it from). For $20 you can stuff two people and buy drinks to wash everything down with.
We also ate at the Big Banana Holding company (excellent pizza, which delivers everywhere on the island, and shrimp salad) and Redcliff Tavern. Both of these are in the capital of St. John in Redcliff Quay.
Another restaurant in Redcliff Quay is the Commissioner's Grill. The food there is simply amazing. I had a mixed grill for $25 which is a small (6oz or so) steak, chicken breast, and 2 lamb chops in the most incredible sauce/seasoning ever. My wife had the largest lobster she had ever seen for $27. Not only was this the best food we ate on the island, but it was among the best food we have eaten anywhere.
The most romantic place we ate at was Turner's, at Turner's Beach. The food was just ok, but the view and the sunset are spectacular. A powdery sand floor and candles top off the ambiance. If you want a romantic spot on the island, come here. You also have a nice view of Montserrat, Rodonda, and Nevis. This restaurant was about 1/2 mile away from OJ's, which the travel books say is the best beach bar/restaurant, but OJ's smelled like donkeys and just didn't have the ambiance of Turner's.
Lastly we ate at Shirley Heights. I had a hot dog, which was the size of a large polish sausage and tasted unbelievably good. My wife had barbecued chicken breast and it was equally good.
Other than our party at the hotel, we did several other things to pass the time. The best was the Circumnavigation tour from Wadadli. Originally we were going to take the Excellence to Barbuda, but that didn't fit well into our schedule. Interesting side note, most Antiguans have not been to Barbuda, or, if they have been, went a long time ago (like 20+ years).
Anyway, the Circ tour was incredible. We were picked up from the hotel at 9am and dropped off at around 4:30pm. The crew consisted of the Captain (Andre), Martin (who mostly ran the bar), King (who worked the ropes/sales and picked up/dropped off guests) and Wan Lovv (who did a little of everything). These guys were great...I cannot say enough good things about them. A crew really makes the trip and these guys were a great crew. The bar stayed open serving rum and beer the entire trip. We had a lunch of chicken, rice, macaroni and cheese, and a vegetable mix, with a brownie-like desert (there was enough for seconds of everything). We stopped at two beaches, one for snorkeling and lunch and the other for relaxing. We sailed around the island for part of the trip, but the majority was under power. Last but not least, the music was great.
We also spent Sunday night at Shirley Heights. Most people come here for the sunset, but in all honesty that's the worst part of the trip. There are many better sunsets elsewhere on the island. What is good is the food, and what is great is the music. Many people make the mistake of coming here only for the sunset, and then with a Catamaran tour. The problem with this is a) you are tired from being in the sun all day and b) you leave too early. Because once the sun goes down and the tourists leave, the locals start to come in. The steel band that plays during sunset goes away and is replaced with a live band. And then the place gets crazy! I definitely recommend hiring your own taxi to take you here and plan on staying until at least 10pm.
We also had a day of driving. We went around most of the island, however two things stand out. The first is Devil's Bridge which, from the descriptions in the books, I pictured to be this massive rock formation in the middle of the Atlantic. Instead it's a tiny bridge a few feet from land that you miss unless you are right on it. Yes, it's very pretty there and I'm happy I went, but I felt a little misled by the books.
The second place is Fig Tree drive. This is the only place that I felt the roads were really bad. Billed as a 20mi stretch of romantic drive through the Antiguan rain forest, it is really an exercise in not getting a flat tire while driving though banana trees. This is a 100% waste and I would not recommend it for anyone.
I don't know why she swallowed the fly. I guess she'll die. Parts of the island are totally infested with flies. Swarms of them attack you and your food. While this is more annoying than anything else, what it is really is puzzling because of the abundance of Tarantulas and Horse Spiders. That's right, Tarantulas and Horse Spiders. As big as they are I figured they would eat every last fly off the island.
Other than in museums, I've never seen a spider the size of a Tarantula before (the Horse spiders are the same size but brown instead of black). Nothing I had read anywhere (and I read a lot) spoke about these things. We were "lucky" enough to see one crawling along the path at Hawksbill our first night at the resort. I simply told myself it was a crab and kept going.
Antigua has its share of "wild life". We had a family of geckos in our room, there are giant toads there and even rats and bats. All of these are fine. But, to be honest, if someone had told me beforehand about the Tarantulas, I would have never gone there.
So, why wouldn't I go again? To be honest, although I enjoyed Antigua, there are too many other places in the world (not to mention the Caribbean) that I haven't been to yet that I want to experience. Few places have the type of pull to get me to repeat visit. While I can understand others going multiple times, and would highly recommend the island, it's not the type of island for me to go back to.
And, lastly, a story which I find a little funny. Whenever I return to the US, there is always something I see immediately in the airport to let me know that I'm home. Sometimes it's a bratty kid, or obnoxious woman, but this time it was an immigrations agent. Stepping off the plane and into IAD customs, I went to the only agent present and asked where US citizens went (all signs read non-US citizens only). She angrily informed me that she was closed, told me to look for an appropriate sign, and pointed me away. I went in the direction she indicated since this was one place that I didn't want to start any trouble, even though I knew there would be no sign there (because I had already looked). Luckily another agent came out and explained that they didn't have a sign yet for US Citizens (except a little paper one...the others were all electronic and hanging overhead) and waved me through a booth quickly.
Anyone who thinks people from other countries aren't friendly should look at their own countries first.